Vitamins are a cosmetic ingredient that transcends trends, always in demand among consumers and formulators. The reason is evident from the term itself: “vitamins,” meaning “amine of life” or “vital amine,” which highlights the indispensability of these precious substances for human life. Vitamins are, in fact, organic compounds involved in biochemical reactions that enable the proper functioning of biological processes of fundamental importance, without which survival would not be possible.
Eating fresh fruits and vegetables daily—because they’re rich in vitamins—or taking vitamin supplements in case of deficiency to stay healthy and boost defenses against external agents, especially during the winter months, is a well-established concept that has become part of our daily routines. But what is their significance in cosmetics? After all, it’s one thing to ingest them, but quite another to apply them to the skin!
Certainly, when applied topically, vitamins have a different mechanism of action and function compared to systemic administration; nevertheless, some vitamins are extremely interesting in the field of cosmetics. They boost the skin’s defenses against external agents, prevent and treat various skin imperfections, and provide antioxidant benefits. In short, they promote the well-being not only of the entire body but also of the skin.
Of the 13 vitamins known today, however, only a few are used in cosmetics. Among the vitamins of interest for topical use, the water-soluble group includes the B-complex vitamins (particularly B3 and B5), H, and C, while the fat-soluble group includes E, F, and certain derivatives of vitamin A. Let’s now explore the benefits and advantages they offer in cosmetic formulations. Knowing this is essential for helping us choose the skincare products best suited to our specific needs.
Vitamin B3, also known as PP or niacinamide, boasts a broad spectrum of actions, as it performs multiple functions depending on its concentration. At low concentrations, it helps retain water in the stratum corneum and keep the skin better hydrated; it is therefore ideal for face and body creams during the cold season and is also recommended for atopic dermatitis or in cases of flaking and itching. It is also beneficial for skin with couperose or rosacea due to its soothing and redness-reducing properties, as well as its ability to combat skin aging. At higher concentrations, it acts as an excellent antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-regulating agent, making it effective for blemished skin with pimples or acne. At higher concentrations, it has a lightening effect on hyperpigmentation, making it useful in the prevention and treatment of skin spots.
Vitamin B5, also known as pantothenic acid or panthenol, has remarkable soothing and regenerative properties and is particularly suitable for the delicate skin of children or the fragile skin of the elderly, as it promotes the formation of new skin tissue. It has excellent humectant properties and helps improve the hydration and elasticity of the skin and hair. It also reduces redness caused by prolonged exposure to UV rays.
Vitamin H, or biotin—sometimes also referred to as vitamin B8—reduces sebum production and is therefore recommended for treating seborrheic dermatitis of the skin and scalp. It is used in hair loss prevention products and in formulations for oily and blemish-prone skin.
Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is perhaps the best-known vitamin, but in the field of cosmetics, it is the most difficult to work with because it is extremely unstable when exposed to light and heat and has poor permeability through the skin. For this reason, its derivatives are often used, such as ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and trisodium ascorbyl phosphate. It has numerous properties: it is an anti-aging ingredient capable of stimulating collagen biosynthesis and increasing skin tone and elasticity; it is an antioxidant capable of counteracting free radical damage; it acts as an anti-inflammatory agent for widespread redness caused by excessive sun exposure; it has keratolytic and skin-lightening effects, counteracting and preventing hyperkeratinization and hyperpigmentation. Vitamin E, or alpha-tocopherol, is a synergistic partner to vitamin C and is used in its pure form or as derivatives primarily for its antioxidant action—as it combats and protects against free radicals—and for its hydrating properties, specifically its ability to limit transepidermal water loss and protect the skin from the natural process of dehydration. It also has emollient, soothing, and anti-redness properties; it improves the visible signs of skin aging by minimizing wrinkles and smoothing the skin, and reduces erythema and edema caused by UV rays. It is therefore a panacea for both dry skin and more mature skin stressed by excessive sun exposure.
Vitamin F, also known as the “skin vitamin,” is widely used in cosmetics because it helps maintain the health of cell membranes, stimulates skin cell regeneration, and hydrates and nourishes the skin, giving it elasticity and softness. It is a favorite ingredient in formulations for dry and mature skin and for soothing sunburn damage. It is also used in hair care products for its beneficial effects.
Vitamin A, or retinoic acid, is one of the most interesting vitamins in cosmetics, although in cosmetic applications only its derivatives—retinol and retinaldehyde—can be used, as they are safer than its pure form. The cosmetic benefits of vitamin A and its derivatives lie in their ability to counteract photoaging and provide powerful anti-aging effects by regenerating and smoothing wrinkles and expression lines while improving the tone and elasticity of the skin. They also promote cellular repair and are therefore useful in treating scars and hyperkeratosis. Finally, they help regulate sebum production and lighten skin discoloration.
As you can see, even though they work in different ways, vitamins play an essential role in cosmetics as well, thanks to their many functions. How are you doing when it comes to vitamins? Have you “incorporated” them into your daily beauty routine? If you’re not sure which products in our line contain them, write to us at [email protected]